Wearable Art. Plains Indian Clothing and Accessories from the Gordon Smith Collection
Accessories

Part of putting together a complete outfit is having the right accessories. Some accessories might be practical, like bags and belts, while others might purely be worn for beauty, like jewelry. The Plains Indians did not have pockets in their clothing, so they relied on bags and belts to carry tools and other personal belongings. Dresses especially were considered incomplete if a belt was not worn. Attached to the belts were awl cases and knife sheaths, as well as small bags that might carry a flint to make a fire, or glass beads and sinew to work on a pattern. The belts and bags were often made out of animal hide and decorated with quills, glass beads, or metal tacks or disks. The Plains Indians were also fond of wearing jewelry. Like today, they wore bracelets, earrings, rings, and necklaces. Women of the Southern tribes, like the Comanche and Cheyenne, wore multiple bracelets and necklaces at the same time.


Bag

Strike-a-Light bags carried flint and tinder, which were then used to start fires.
Sioux
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Case

Sometimes, the colors used in beadwork represented a different direction. White might mean north, blue could be west, green the south, and red the east.
Southern Plains
Early 20th Century

Pouch

Native Americans living on reservations traded ration tickets for food and other necessities. Sometimes, ration tickets were kept with the tinder in Strike-a-Light bags, or they might be stored in a separate pouch.
Lakota or Sioux
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Medicine Bag

This bag is called a "possible" bag because it could hold anything possible. Possible bags were square-bottomed, and the beading on the top flap often matched the beading on the side, connecting the design.
Lakota
Early 20th Century

Belt w/Accessories

This belt shows the items of a typical belt set: a pouch, knife sheath, and awl case. These tools would be utilized throughout the day.
Lakota
Early 20th Century

Scabbard

This belt shows the items of a typical belt set: a pouch, knife sheath, and awl case. These tools would be utilized throughout the day.
Oglala
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Belt

This belt was woven in an impressive pattern using rich colors. The addition of glass beads on the fringe adds a sparkling element to the overall design.
Osage
c.1900

Scabbard

The feathers on this scabbard are the down feathers of a bird, possible an eagle. Down feathers are very soft and located beneath the exterior feathers. They were dyed and used as embellishment on many Plains Indian objects.
Lakota
Early 20th Century

Arm Bands

Arm bands and cuffs are still worn by Plains Indians, as part of their dance regalia, today.
Lakota
Early 20th Century

Cuffs

Arm bands and cuffs are still worn by Plains Indians, as part of their dance regalia, today.
Lakota
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Cuffs

Arm bands and cuffs are still worn by Plains Indians, as part of their dance regalia, today.
Northern Plains
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Breastplate

Breastplates were originally used as armor during battle or while hunting. They were then viewed as a status symbol and worn on special occasions by both men and women.
Lakota
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Breastplate

Breastplates were originally used as armor during battle or while hunting. They were then viewed as a status symbol and worn on special occasions by both men and women.
Oglala
Early 20th Century

Breastplate

Breastplates were originally used as armor during battle or while hunting. They were then viewed as a status symbol and worn on special occasions by both men and women.
Lakota
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Bandolier

These bandoliers were not used to hold ammunition like modern bandoliers, but acted as a decorative element. Many times they were made with trade beads, but these examples show that other objects were also used.
Lakota
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Bandolier

These bandoliers were not used to hold ammunition like modern bandoliers, but acted as a decorative element. Many times they were made with trade beads, but these examples show that other objects were also used.
Lakota
Late19th-Early 20th Century

Bandolier

These bandoliers were not used to hold ammunition like modern bandoliers, but acted as a decorative element. Many times they were made with trade beads, but these examples show that other objects were also used.
Plains
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Bandolier

These bandoliers were not used to hold ammunition like modern bandoliers, but acted as a decorative element. Many times they were made with trade beads, but these examples show that other objects were also used.
Sioux
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Necktie

This tie has the same shape as a modern necktie, but it is made out of buckskin instead of cloth.
Lakota
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Necklace

Beads could also be made out of metals, like brass or silver, as well as glass.
Plains
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Necklace

The Comanche were particularly fond of jewelry. They wore metal bracelets and multiple strands of glass bead necklaces at a time.
Plains
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Necklace

The Comanche were particularly fond of jewelry. They wore metal bracelets and multiple strands of glass bead necklaces at a time.
Plains
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Necklace

Gordon Smith's friend, Samuel Belt, told him that a warrior would only kill a bear if he had to, such as if he met one on a path. Once the warrior wore the necklace, the spirit of the bear stayed with him.
Plains or Lakota
Early 20th Century

Necklace

Gordon Smith's friend, Samuel Belt, told him that a warrior would only kill a bear if he had to, such as if he met one on a path. Once the warrior wore the necklace, the spirit of the bear stayed with him.
Plains
Early 20th Century

Necklace

The "claws" on this necklace were carved out of horn to imitate real bear claws.
Northern Plains
Early 19th-Early 20th Century

Necklace

This type of necklace was popular among the Crow and Blackfoot tribes. White beads were typically used to create the loops, with a darker colored bead in the center.
Lakota, Cheyenne or Crow
Late 19th -Early 20th Century

Necklace

Bone and teeth were other popular decorative element. Gordon Smith's collection also contains a necklace made of finger bones.
Plains or Lakota
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Necklace

Bone and teeth were other popular decorative element. Gordon Smith's collection also contains a necklace made of finger bones.
Osage/unknown
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Roach

Roach headdresses were often worn into battle or as dance regalia. They were not as spiritually significant as war bonnets, but boys still had to earn the right to wear them.
Lakota
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Roach

Roach headdresses were often worn into battle or as dance regalia. They were not as spiritually significant as war bonnets, but boys still had to earn the right to wear them.
Lakota
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Bonnet

This is another example of the Lakota geometric beadwork on a white background. The primary stitch used to bead the sunbonnet was the lazy stitch technique.
Lakota
Early 20th Century