Wearable Art. Plains Indian Clothing and Accessories from the Gordon Smith Collection
Ceremonial Clothing

The Plains Indians were very spiritual, and some clothing items or body adornments, like war bonnets, were only worn during special rituals and ceremonies. War bonnets were decorated with eagle feathers, with each feather representing a heroic act performed by the warrior during battle. Religious ceremonies, such as the Ghost Dance introduced in the 1890s, also led to new symbolism and outfits specific to those movements.


Bustle

Dance bustles were also called "Crows". In his autobiography, Gordon Smith mentions how they were once made with feathers from many different birds, including crows. Bustles were thought to represent a battlefield, and only the feathers of birds who visited a battlefield after the fighting was over were used.
Lakota
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Bustle

Dance bustles were also called "Crows". In his autobiography, Gordon Smith mentions how they were once made with feathers from many different birds, including crows. Bustles were thought to represent a battlefield, and only the feathers of birds who visited a battlefield after the fighting was over were used.
Lakota
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Bonnet

A warrior could not make a war bonnet until he had the correct number of eagle feathers, and those were earned by performing brave acts during battle. War bonnets are the ultimate status symbol because only the bravest men wore them.
Lakota
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Bonnet

A warrior could not make a war bonnet until he had the correct number of eagle feathers, and those were earned by performing brave acts during battle. War bonnets are the ultimate status symbol because only the bravest men wore them.
Northern Cheyenne
Late 19th- Early 20th Century

Bonnet

This war shirt and leggings outfit was created for a teenaged Gordon Smith, who was made a member of the Lakota Tribe in 1934. Traditionally, only a select few, called "Shirt Wearers," were permitted to wear war shirts. These men displayed acts of courage during war, as well as wisdom and generosity during their everyday lives. It was also believed that the shirts held special powers that protected the wearer in battle. The picture next to this outfit shows the young Gordon wearing these pieces while holding his pipe.
Lakota
Early 20th Century

War shirt

This war shirt and leggings outfit was created for a teenaged Gordon Smith, who was made a member of the Lakota Tribe in 1934. Traditionally, only a select few, called "Shirt Wearers," were permitted to wear war shirts. These men displayed acts of courage during war, as well as wisdom and generosity during their everyday lives. It was also believed that the shirts held special powers that protected the wearer in battle. The picture next to this outfit shows the young Gordon wearing these pieces while holding his pipe.
1933

Leggings

This war shirt and leggings outfit was created for a teenaged Gordon Smith, who was made a member of the Lakota Tribe in 1934. Traditionally, only a select few, called "Shirt Wearers," were permitted to wear war shirts. These men displayed acts of courage during war, as well as wisdom and generosity during their everyday lives. It was also believed that the shirts held special powers that protected the wearer in battle. The picture next to this outfit shows the young Gordon wearing these pieces while holding his pipe.
1933

Moccasins

This war shirt and leggings outfit was created for a teenage Gordon Smith, who was made a member of the Lakota Tribe in 1934. Traditionally, only a select few, called "Shirt Wearers," were permitted to wear war shirts. These men displayed acts of courage during war, as well as wisdom and generosity during their everyday lives. It was also believed that the shirts held special powers that protected the wearer in battle. The picture next to this outfit shows the young Gordon wearing these pieces while holding his pipe.
Lakota or Northern Cheyenne
1910

Bag

This war shirt and leggings outfit was created for a teenaged Gordon Smith, who was made a member of the Lakota Tribe in 1934. Traditionally, only a select few, called "Shirt Wearers," were permitted to wear war shirts. These men displayed acts of courage during war, as well as wisdom and generosity during their everyday lives. It was also believed that the shirts held special powers that protected the wearer in battle. The picture next to this outfit shows the young Gordon wearing these pieces while holding his pipe.
Lakota
Early 20th Century

Dress

This is a classic example of a Southern Plains three-hide dress in the Cheyenne style. The dress was made using three complete hides, one for the yoke, and one for each side of the skirt. Yellow was a popular color choice among the Cheyenne, as was the scalloped beadwork at the bottom of the dress. To complete the outfit, a woman would also wear a belt, like the one shown here with large silver conchas, as well as the highly decorated high top moccasins of the Southern Plains.
Cheyenne
1890-1900

Moccasin-Leggins

This is a classic example of a Southern Plains three-hide dress in the Cheyenne style. The dress was made using three complete hides, one for the yoke, and one for each side of the skirt. Yellow was a popular color choice among the Cheyenne, as was the scalloped beadwork at the bottom of the dress. To complete the outfit, a woman would also wear a belt, like the one shown here with large silver conchas, as well as the highly decorated high top moccasins of the Southern Plains.
Cheyenne or Arapaho
c.1900

Belt

This is a classic example of a Southern Plains three-hide dress in the Cheyenne style. The dress was made using three complete hides, one for the yoke, and one for each side of the skirt. Yellow was a popular color choice among the Cheyenne, as was the scalloped beadwork at the bottom of the dress. To complete the outfit, a woman would also wear a belt, like the one shown here with large silver conchas, as well as the highly decorated high top moccasins of the Southern Plains.
Southern Plains
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Knife Case

This is a classic example of a Southern Plains three-hide dress in the Cheyenne style. The dress was made using three complete hides, one for the yoke, and one for each side of the skirt. Yellow was a popular color choice among the Cheyenne, as was the scalloped beadwork at the bottom of the dress. To complete the outfit, a woman would also wear a belt, like the one shown here with large silver conchas, as well as the highly decorated high top moccasins of the Southern Plains.
Plains
Late 19th-Early 20th Century