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Embellishment
Many Plains Indians objects are considered to be works of art. The original makers did not necessarily see these objects this way because the primary importance of an object was in its use. Clothing, for example, protected the people from the elements. Still, decoration was a way for the tribesmen and women to express themselves and their beliefs, so this task was taken very seriously. The clothing and accessories of different tribes might have similar elements, but most tribes would decorate their clothes with symbols, patterns, and colors that had significant meanings to them.
The earliest form of embellishment was paint. Originally, this was done with clay or plants that provided the basis for many pigments. Once the Europeans arrived, they brought with them powdered dyes that could be mixed with water or rubbed onto the hides. Women would paint geometric designs, while men were responsible for the realistic and symbolic figures. Before the introduction of glass beads to the Plains, porcupine quills were dyed and flattened and used to cover large areas on clothing and moccasins. In many tribes quillwork was sacred, so before women could quill symbolic designs they would have to be initiated into craft guilds. Other early forms of embellishment included stones, metals, shells, claws, and elk teeth. These items could be attached to clothing or used as jewelry.
Today, many people associate Plains Indians with beadwork. Glass beads were among the most popular items the Europeans brought to trade. Most of these beads were made by glassblowers in Venice, Italy. Glass would be blown and stretched into hollow tubes of various widths and then cut into the individual beads. The beads came in many different colors, with some being more expensive than others. Cheaper colors like white and light blue were used in large numbers as background colors, while the more expensive red beads were used more sparingly. Larger beads would be strung along sinew or thread to make jewelry, while smaller ones were stitched onto clothing, moccasins, bags, and tool cases to make more intricate designs.
Paint Stick
Buffalo bones were used as paint brushes. The porous bones were soaked in water, which would
soften them and allow them to absorb paint.
Paint Stick
Buffalo bones were used as paint brushes. The porous bones were soaked in water, which would
soften them and allow them to absorb paint.
Paint Stick
Buffalo bones were used as paint brushes. The porous bones were soaked in water, which would
soften them and allow them to absorb paint.
Sheath
Paint was originally made using natural materials like dirt, plants, berries, and even animal
material, like blood. The Europeans then introduced powdered dyes of different colors, which only needed
to be mixed with water or hide glue.
Porcupine Quills
Quillwork is an art form unique to North American indigenous peoples. Although beadwork became
more popular after the introduction of glass beads, quillwork is still practiced by Native American artists
today.
Lakota
Late 19-Early 20th Century
Breastplate
The quills began white and were then soaked in natural dyes to make them red, yellow, green,
blue, or black.
Knife Case
Quillwork is a time consuming process. It consists of softening and flattening the quills,
which was sometimes done by wetting them in the mouth and flattening them with the teeth. The flattened
quills were then woven into hide in intricate patterns very similar to those done with beadwork.
Plains
Late 19th-Earl 20th Century
Leggings
Quillwork is a time consuming process. It consists of softening and flattening the quills,
which was sometimes done by wetting them in the mouth and flattening them with the teeth. The flattened
quills were then woven into hide in intricate patterns very similar to those done with beadwork.
Lakota
Late 19th-Early 20th Century
Roach
Feathers, especially eagle feathers, were very important to Plains Indians. Men would typically
earn them by performing brave acts during battle.
Necklace
Shells were used for embellishment long before the Europeans came to North America. Many times
they would be strung on necklaces, like these.
Necklace
Elk teeth were used to decorate many objects, including clothing. Only the two eye teeth from
an elk were used, so a dress covered with teeth showed the wealth and hunting skills of the woman's
family
Northern Plains
Late 19th-Early 20th Century
Moccasins
Tin cones were another form of embellishment used to decorate moccasins, leggings, clothing,
and bags, and they would make a pleasant tinkling sound when they hit one another.
Necklace
Many hair pipe beads were made from shell, but bone was much more common beginning around 1880.
Bone was a cheaper and hardier material than the shell.
Sewing Bag
This bag belonged to a woman Gordon Smith met on the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation in South
Dakota named Laura Whirlwind Soldier. When Gordon first saw the bag it held this knife, awl, and buffalo
bladder pouch.
Pouch
When Laura Whirlwind Soldier owned this pouch, she used it to hold porcupine quills.
Knife
This knife case shows another popular form of Plains Indian embellishment: metal tacks. Tacks
like this were also popular on belts.
Sheath
This knife case shows another popular form of Plains Indian embellishment: metal tacks. Tacks
like this were also popular on belts.
Awl
The awl is a fundamental tool in beadwork. The sharp point could easily puncture a small hole
in a hide, which sinew or a needle could then pass through.
Knife Sheath
Knives and awls were a part of a woman's belt set. When a young woman began to bead, their
cases were the first objects she would make. If she did not learn how to bead, she was considered to be
lazy.
Awl Case
Generally, the beadwork on objects of a belt set matched or complemented one another, like this
knife sheath and awl case. The addition of these items to the belt also implied that the wearer knew how
to use them.
Awl and Case
Awl cases were beaded with a stitch called the running stitch. This stitch made it easier for
the beads to wrap around the case.
Kiowa or Sioux
Early 20th Century
Necklace
Another style of beadwork was done on looms. Each bead is individually held between a
horizontal and vertical piece of thread.
Southern Plains
Early 20th Century
Necklace
Another style of beadwork was done on looms. Each bead is individually held between a
horizontal and vertical piece of thread.
Southern Plains
Early 20th Century
Belt
Once the loomed beadwork was completed, it might be sewn down to decorate another object, like
a belt or arm bands.
Plains or Lakota
Early 20th Century
Strip
Once the loomed beadwork was completed, it might be sewn down to decorate another object, like
a belt or arm bands.
Northern Plains or Lakota
Late 19th-Early 20th Century
Arm band
Once the loomed beadwork was completed, it might be sewn down to decorate another object, like
a belt or arm bands.
Lakota
Late 19th-Early 20th Century
Purse
These European purses were both beaded using one of the most common techniques, the lazy
stitch. In this technique, beads are stitched in rows of six to ten beads.
Purse
These European purses were both beaded using one of the most common techniques, the lazy
stitch. In this technique, beads are stitched in rows of six to ten beads.
Head band
Traditionally, women only beaded or quilled geometric patterns, while men were responsible for
more realistic designs. When a realistic design like this was beaded, the male would sketch the pattern
on the hide, and then the female would use her beadworking knowledge to complete the design.
Southern Plains or Kiowa
Early 20th Century
