Wearable Art. Plains Indian Clothing and Accessories from the Gordon Smith Collection
Hide Preparation and Fitting the Pieces

Once the material was gathered to make the clothing women, were responsible for creating the final product. They would make a dress and leggings for themselves and their daughters, while making a shirt or vest, breechcloth, and leggings for their husband and sons.

When making buckskin clothing the first step was to tan the hide. Tanning is the process of making the final product soft and flexible. First, a fleshing tool was used to scrape the fat, muscle, and membranes from the fleshy side of the skin, and for removing the hair on the outer layer of hide. After the dried hide has been scraped the tanning began. One method of tanning was to cook the brain of the animal and rub it into the skin using a stone. The oils in the brain break down fibers in the hide to make it soft and fl exible. To prevent the hide from becoming stiff when it got wet, the hide was smoked. Many people believe smoking the hide made it water resistant, but that is not quite true. The hide could still get wet, but the smoking allowed it to stay flexible and smooth after it dried.

Once this process was finished the hides would be fitted to a pattern to create a piece of clothing. When making dresses and shirts, two hides would typically be used: one for the front and one for the back. The hides would be cut to create a certain shape, and then they would be stitched together using sinew, a tendon from the spine of the bison.


Flesher

Modified gun barrels were often repurposed as fleshers. They were used to remove the membrane from the fleshy side of the hide.
Lakota
Early 20th Century

Scraper

Many scraper tools were, and still are, made from elk antler. The antlers were filed until smooth, and then a metal blade might be attached with rawhide.
Lakota
Late 19th-Earl 20th Century

Scraper

Many scraper tools were, and still are, made from elk antler. The antlers were filed until smooth, and then a metal blade might be attached with rawhide.
Sioux
Late 19th-Earl 20th Century