Wearable Art. Plains Indian Clothing and Accessories from the Gordon Smith Collection
Moccasins

Moccasins were an important element to complete a Plains Indian outfit. The traditional, side-seam moccasins, were soft-soled and made from a single piece of hide. In the mid-19th century hard, rawhide soles became more common on moccasins across the Plains. This style might have been introduced from the Southwestern tribes or European footwear. After the arrival of the horse, women on the Southern Plains began to combine their moccasins and leggings. These high top moccasins would be decorated with beads, like traditional moccasins, as well as fringe, tin cones, and metal tacks.


Moccasins

Children were dressed the same as adults. The only difference was their clothes were smaller in scale. An adult might have worn these moccasins in a larger size.
Lakota
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Moccasins

: Children were dressed the same as adults. The only difference was their clothes were smaller in scale. An adult might have worn these moccasins in a larger size.
Lakota
Late 19th-early 20th Century

Moccasins

Fully beaded moccasins, also called burial moccasins, were worn by the living and the dead. Some wore them to show their wealth as horse owners. The beaded soles implied they always rode horses and did not need to walk. Others were made for the dead. Women would spend several days beading moccasins and other items to honor their loved ones. Finally, Native Americans on reservations sold beaded items to collectors. These, like those made for the dead, show no wear on the soles because they were placed on display and not worn.
Sioux or Osage
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Moccasins

Fully beaded moccasins, also called burial moccasins, were worn by the living and the dead. Some wore them to show their wealth as horse owners. The beaded soles implied they always rode horses and did not need to walk. Others were made for the dead. Women would spend several days beading moccasins and other items to honor their loved ones. Finally, Native Americans on reservations sold beaded items to collectors. These, like those made for the dead, show no wear on the soles because they were placed on display and not worn.
Sioux

Moccasins

Fully beaded moccasins, also called burial moccasins, were worn by the living and the dead. Some wore them to show their wealth as horse owners. The beaded soles implied they always rode horses and did not need to walk. Others were made for the dead. Women would spend several days beading moccasins and other items to honor their loved ones. Finally, Native Americans on reservations sold beaded items to collectors. These, like those made for the dead, show no wear on the soles because they were placed on display and not worn
Sioux
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Moccasins

Moccasins were typically made in the side-seam style using one piece of buckskin. The Southern Plains tribes began attaching a rawhide sole to give their feet more protection. Overtime, the use of the rawhide sole spread to tribes in the Northern Plains.
Lakota
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Moccasins

Moccasins were typically made in the side-seam style using one piece of buckskin. The Southern Plains tribes began attaching a rawhide sole to give their feet more protection. Overtime, the use of the rawhide sole spread to tribes in the Northern Plains.
Cheyenne or Sioux
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Moccasins

Some moccasins are not fully beaded, with only a beaded border and sparse design across the remainder of the shoe. However, the design does not have any less of an impact. In these two cases, the white beads still stand out against the hide.
Lakota
c. 1890

Moccasins

Red was a very popular background color in quillwork, but red beads were more expensive than colors like white or blue. It is impressive to see such a large area of red, since its cost meant it was typically used more sparingly.
Lakota or Sioux
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Moccasins

Some moccasins are not fully beaded, with only a beaded border and sparse design across the remainder of the shoe. However, the design does not have any less of an impact. In these two cases, the white beads still stand out against the hide.
Cheyenne or Sioux
Late 19th-Early 20th Century

Moccasins

A common theme in Cheyenne beadwork is the contrast of color. On these moccasins, for example, no colors of a similar shade are next to one another. The dark borders further separate the colors and allow each one to stand out.
Northern Cheyenne
Early 20th Century

Moccasin-Leggings

Many times, women on the Southern Plains would connect their moccasins and leggings. These boots would extend above the knee, which was higher than most leggings, and were then folded down over the garter that held them in place.
Cheyenne or Lakota
c. 1900